A Rappahannock son returns, serving up the county’s culinary bounty

This is a story about a young man, a chef in Richmond, whose deep love of Rappahannock and fond memories of growing up here, returns him often to visit the people, the forested woodland, rich pastures, and magical hollows of his past. And now, he returns to serve the county’s treasures on the plates of his customers.

To wild applause and standing room only, he has enjoyed sold out pop-up dinners, culinary treasures served with creative flair, ingredients sourced from Sunnyside Farm, Chancellor’s Rock, Roy’s Orchard, Keith and Sylvie Rowand, Pen Druid Brewery and more. He celebrates and shares the gifts of our unique rural, farming community.

Hans says with avid enthusiasm that he cannot think of a “more beautiful place full of incredible people than Rappahannock: untouched, undeveloped, a gorgeous landscape with so many people growing such amazing food.”

A recent pop-up dinner, with a menu that reads like a foodies dream, this young man describes the ingredients he sources from our county and the end product on customers’ tables:

“Ginger is from Chancellor’s Rock. Around Huntly, near Wakefield. Jennifer has the tidiest garden I have ever seen. It is the most robust, aromatic ginger that I’ve ever worked with. I ground it with goose liver and spice bush for a pate. We were also able to source some particularly hearty parsnips here. They went into a pavé for the goose breast and into the Maultaschen, a meat-filled dumpling. Like most places in the foothills, you’d never know it was there. Tucked away half way to Front Royal.”

“Apples, apples, apples. Roy and Janet are the people to see. With around a dozen varieties grown in their own orchards, there’s a specific variety for any application a cook could have. They showed up all over our menu; from savory to sweet. We made a sorghum apple butter as a condiment for the pate; cut them fresh for a dessert, and made a glaze to dress the pork shank. We’re spoiled for choice. “

“Honey. I’m particularly partial to the arboreal honey that Keith Rowand makes. Keith and Sylvie were my next door neighbors for some time, and I have to admit that I was in no small way an absolute menace to their idyllic homestead. Nobody needs a hormonal teenager with a four-wheeler and a hunting rifle tearing all up and down their mountain.

That being said, Sylvie is a phenomenal talent in the kitchen and the garden, and whether she knows it or not she’s a tremendous inspiration to me. She gave me one of the first food experiences that really made me think about food the way that I do now. The fact that she can cook what she grows on a regular basis is incredible. She has complete control over her ingredients from start to finish. Absolutely floors me. The honey that Keith provides to us tastes like home. We put it in an Acorn Financier (a sponge cake) and a Bavarian for dessert. Very special place, Mount Marshall.”

“The vegetables from Sunnyside. Nik, Amanda and the team are growing wonderful things here. They provide for some truly high caliber chefs, so I’m always humbled to work with them. They grew the majority of our menu. We sourced some astoundingly punchy mustard greens, fantastic kale, and pounds of potatoes and sweet potatoes. They’re really excited about the food that they grow, and always happy to guide around their operation. These are my favorite days. “

“The beer. The Carney Brothers of Pen Druid are making some of the most interesting and delicious brews in the state. Their methods are wild and honest. They’re literally bottling the foothills as far as I’m concerned, and they’re so kind and supportive to work with. I love these guys to the moon and back. Their commitment to sustainability is what every producer should aspire to. Golden Swan forever.”

“Quarter Horse, the name of my small company, means a lot of things to me. It’s a chance for me to cook ingredients that I love, the way that I want to cook them. It’s a lot of work but every step of the way is deeply fulfilling. I feel so very fortunate to have a foothold in RPK.”

This is a story about my son, Hans Doxzen.

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